Published in Sommelier India Spring 2021

Renu Chahil-Graf is excited about her discovery of Maso di Villa wines in the hills of Conegliano

The glass was swirled, the aroma breathed in deep, and breathed in again, it was already unbelievable. Eventually the first mouthful had to be taken, swished around and finally swallowed. The effect was instant. It had been at least three decades for me since the same feeling had arisen. To make one jump from one’s chair and run to the owner. Who had produced this magnificent wine?

In the evening, I was brought a plate of mozzarella and tomato sprinkled with local olive oil and generously topped with home- grown basil, offered with a taste of their premium wine — Maso di Villa 2009. That was when the second lifetime experience struck. I literally jumped up, chasing the bearer of this nirvana into the kitchen.

Patiently, over the next three days, in between her managerial and maternal responsibilities, Chiara Lucchetta, daughter of the owner, describes the evolution of a vineyard abandoned for over 20 years into an oasis of pure joy. All thanks to the unwavering commitment of her stubborn father.

Giuseppe Lucchetta (Beppe for short), trained as an architect but turned to fashion design in the hallowed halls of trendy Milan. Twenty-five years later he decided to experiment with his secret passion: wine. Scouting around the area where he had lived in another avatar, he came upon the perfect south-facing spot: a crumbling farmhouse, acres of wilted vines set in a picture- perfect landscape on gently rolling hills — and the property, Maso di Villa, was born. Beppe’s initial objective to produce a small quantity of high quality red wine holds good till today. Luckily, for wine aficionados, it was an objective well met and testified by the best with awards in blind tastings, but more so by the fidelity of lovers of exceptional wine.

The property was bought in 1999, the first planting done a year later and the first production of the wine named Maso di Villa appeared in 2004. Despite scepticism from Lauretta, the owner’s wife, daughter Chiara, and other family members and friends, Beppe was confident. He persisted. He persevered. He ignored the nay-sayers who said that a red would never take off in this region, a region well known for its whites, specifically the world famous, popular — and profitable — Italian bubbly, Prosecco.

Off on his tractor, then as now, Beppe hastens to survey his grapes, assessing them for their readiness for early or late harvest, troubleshooting, jumping off to tackle a wayward branch. A phantom, at age 70, moving fast — now he’s here, now he’s gone! I never did succeed in chasing him down. Luckily, Chiara was more than forthcoming, furnished with a wealth of knowledge, having been involved in the project from the earliest days of doubt and dismay. But before that, she had quite a history herself as a world traveller with three trips to India under her belt!

The first, with a tour operator, starting in Mumbai, covered Ajanta, Ellora, Khajuraho, you name it. The next time, independently, it was a two-week exploration of Kerala, its backwaters and more. And then another three weeks of Rajasthan, Pushkar, Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, visiting old havelis and most importantly, and memorably, meeting the man who became her husband, Giovanni.

In between these travels, Chiara trained in foreign languages and literature. Her siblings were living in Milano, one in advertising and the other in public relations, both with two kids each, but neither of them available for the vineyard. So her parents found her to be the perfect person to get involved in the new business, especially in running the renovated farmhouse as a small hotel. She would make the ideal host, with extensive travel experience, facility with languages and an accessible, warm personality. Chiara agreed, but being a perfectionist, she started by first taking a degree in tourism. She now welcomes guests from around the world.

Not visualised as a business, but as a desire to make a dream come true, the first 10 years comprised just expenses and losses. Five years later there was enough to pay workers and cover the running costs of the winery. Following the blind tasting in 2008 with many famous wines, Nasi Rossi hit the jackpot, was discovered more widely and finally could achieve some financial success.

The attention to quality continues. Each bottle is numbered, noting also the total number of bottles produced in that vintage. It carries the prestigious DOCG label signifying the highest quality. In the words of Chiara, it is “a product of passion and hard work”. A small family enterprise, all of them working 24×7, hiring seasonal labour just for the harvest. Even the label has been designed by Beppe, depicting six friends after imbibing too much of the good stuff and ending up with “nasi rossi” — red noses!

While the starting point is the same for both the Maso di Villa and Nasi Rossi wines, the latter is aged longer which gives it its distinctive flavour of small red fruits, raspberries, cherries, cranberries, some plum, combined with flavours from ageing in oak barrels like vanilla, coffee, green pepper, tobacco. Currently 3,370 bottles of Nasi Rossi, Colli di Conegliano Rosso 2009, Riserva and 103 magnums, at 14% alcohol by volume, have been produced.

To complement the vineyard and winemaking, Chiara runs the small hotel, each room designed with a specific colour and ambiance in mind. A setting of peace and tranquillity that lifts the spirits. The vegetable garden, organic as is the vineyard, is tended by Lauretta and monitored by her precocious five-year-old grand-daughter, Caterina. It’s a family enterprise, indeed.

Maso di Villa, Via Col di Guarda 15, 31058 Susegana loc. Collalto, Treviso. T +39 0438 841414.